Design and planting is the part where a site stops being a construction project and turns into a garden. We do both halves — which means the drainage, levels and hard landscaping are designed with the planting in mind, rather than the planting being squeezed into whatever space is left.
PHOTO TO ADD: An established planted scheme, ideally photographed a season or two after completion so it looks grown-in rather than freshly planted. (delete this note once the image is in)
What we offer
- Full garden design, from survey and levels through to a planting plan
- Planting schemes for borders, screening and structure
- Turfing and lawn creation, including preparation and levelling
- Wildflower and meadow areas
- Hedging — native mixed, beech, hornbeam and evergreen screening
- Topsoil supply, improvement and mulching
- Raised beds, kitchen gardens and fruit
- Tree planting, staking and establishment
Planting for this climate, not a catalogue
Gardens here contend with high rainfall, wind, heavy clay and, at altitude, a genuinely short season. Plants that thrive in a sheltered garden in the south will sit and sulk on an exposed South Lakes hillside, and the usual result is an expensive border that has to be replaced twice.
We plant for the conditions: shelter belts and hedging to take the wind off before anything ornamental goes in, species that tolerate wet feet where drainage is limited, and soil improvement — organic matter, sharp grit, raised levels — where the clay would otherwise drown the roots. Where a garden backs onto open country, deer and rabbit protection is part of the plan from the outset rather than an afterthought.
The advantage of doing both
Because we are groundworkers too, we can fix the underlying problem instead of planting around it. If a border is waterlogged, we will put a land drain in before we plant. Most planting-only contractors cannot, and most groundworkers do not think to.
Lawns and turfing
A good lawn is 90% preparation. We strip, level, cultivate and firm the ground properly, improve drainage where it is needed, and lay turf tight with staggered joints. On heavy clay we will often recommend improving and drainage work before turfing rather than laying beautiful turf onto ground that will drown it — you get a lawn you can use in March, not one you can only look at.
Common questions
Do you offer design on its own?
Yes. Some clients want a design to work through in stages themselves, and that is fine. Most prefer us to design and then build it, which keeps one set of hands responsible for the result.
When is the best time to plant?
Autumn is ideal for most trees, shrubs and hedging — the ground is still warm and the winter rain does the watering for you. Spring works too. We will plant year-round apart from in hard frost or drought.
How long before it looks established?
Honestly, two to three seasons for a border to knit together, longer for hedging and trees. We design planting so it looks deliberate from day one rather than sparse, but nothing replaces time.
Will you maintain it afterwards?
We are not a maintenance company, but we hand over aftercare notes for what we have planted and we are always at the end of the phone. For anything we have built, we would far rather you rang us than guessed.
Get a price for your job
Tell us what you are planning and we will come and look at it properly. Free quotes, no obligation, anywhere in the South Lakes.
Free quote
Tell us about the job
Fill this in and we will ring you back to arrange a site visit — usually the same day. No obligation and no hard sell: if it is not a job for us, we will say so and point you at someone who does it.
In a hurry? Ring the mobile. If we are on a digger we will call you straight back.
07919 448092
